What is the MWC?

Description: Warspite%20chase%2003Description: 2861422-R1-020-8ADescription: 2861422-R6-026-11A

Model Warship Combat (MWC), Inc. was founded in 1998 by a group of veteran model warship combat captains in order to provide a national organization dedicated to the safety, promotion, development and fun of R/C model warship combat. MWC, Inc. is organized as a 501(c)7 non-profit corporation registered in the State of Georgia. This status means MWC is unique among the other R/C warship combat clubs and allows MWC to provide its membership with certain services not available elsewhere. MWC Inc. also sanctions combat events across the country including an annual National Championship in July and supports local affiliated groups, known as chapters, within several regions of the country.

Membership in MWC, Inc. is open to any person interested in the hobby of R/C model warship combat. There are no age limits to join, however minors must have a parent or guardian sign their membership form. The hobby of model warship combat is an excellent opportunity for parents to become involved with their children in a life-long hobby that encourages creativity through experimentation and construction of model ships combined with good sportsmanship and teamwork by participation in combat events.

MWC offers assistance to beginners in selecting and building combat ships through electronic forums and contacts with veteran captains. Local chapters of the MWC sponsor several combat events and meetings throughout the year (but usually during the winter for non-combat building sessions) that the beginner can use to aid their entry into the hobby. Our main event (basically our Super Bowl) for the year is the National Championships (Nats) held in July of each year at varying places around the country.

Since MWC is a corporation, this has allowed it to secure a liability insurance policy to cover both the organization and its members during R/C warship combat activity. This insurance is included in the price of dues so all MWC members are automatically covered.

The MWC organization can also assist local members in securing locations to enjoy the hobby of R/C model warship combat. Our safety and ship construction rules are geared towards minimizing the inherent dangers to both participants and bystanders that are posed by our ships. Safety is the number one driving force behind MWC. Having fun and good fellowship with friends is the second.

FAQ

A. General

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat is a FAQ?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifA "FAQ" (pronounced fack) is a text file where Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) are stored for people interested in a subject being discussed at that location. In the case of this FAQ, it pertains to frequently asked questions within the Model Warship Combat organization.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifDo the models actually sink?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifYah, you betcha. In fact, we tend to tune our rules based on the frequency of sinks. According to our rules all combatants must be sinkable. As we tend to fight in waters shallow enough for wading, sunken ships are normally found and recovered quickly.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhy would anyone allow their model ship to be shot up and sunk?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifBecause you get to shoot up and hopefully sink someone else's model ship. If your technical and tactical skills are fairly good, then you won't sink that often. But you do have to put your ship on the line in order to sink someone else's!

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifAre the ships easy to repair and how do you do it?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe ships are designed and built to take the punishment, and are very easy to repair. Usually a repair is no more than covering a bb hole with a silkspan patch (very much like tissue paper but stronger) and a light covering of glue or quick-drying paint. When dry, the hole is patched.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifIsn't water bad for your electronics?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe sensitive electronics, including the bulk of the radio equipment, are usually protected from the water, either through the use of watertight boxes, or by some other form of waterproofing. The electrical drive motors aren't usually protected, as it's not too hard to find inexpensive motors that aren't bothered by exposure to water.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhy don't you arm all of your main guns?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThere are several reasons. For one thing, packing a bb cannon in for each main gun can be difficult for some people, especially beginners. Also, one of our rapid-fire bb cannons is more than enough to sink another ship if it can be placed on target. So, to keep beginners from being totally out-classed by old vets, the number of units (a unit being either a 'standard 50 shot bb-cannon' or a 'pump with a standard 1/8" outlet') per ship is regulated by our rules. The number of units for ships most commonly battled range from 3 units up to a maximum of 8 units. One of our guiding principles from the early days has been to try to keep the ships and systems from getting too complicated and/or expensive for the normal guy off the street. This is another reason for cutting down on the number of units per ship.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhy do you need pumps?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifPartially for safety reasons. In an effort to keep the power of the bb cannon systems down, the sides of the ships are sheeted with 1/32" balsa wood, to allow easy penetration. But since we're building and battling battleships here, we don't want a single hole to sink our beauties. Thus, a captain has the option of using pumps to simulate the punishment absorbing capabilities of the full-sized prototypes. The ship has to take enough hits to overcome the capacity of his pump(s) in order to sink.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifSo you can actually fight battles just like Jutland or Surgio Straight?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifWell, yes and no. We can build the ships from these famous battles, but we don't normally fight in a 'line of battle'. Since it is very difficult to aim a bb cannon to hit at long range when one isn't even on the ship but standing on shore, most of our battles go right to the melee stage. In addition, due to the safety rules, many of the cannons are mounted to fire either off the bow or the stern, which means that you’d be firing on your own fleet if you were sailing in a line of battle.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhy go to all this trouble if you can't fight like the real ships?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifWhen we all first heard of this hobby, many of us had visions of duplicating actual battles. But it just wouldn't work, as there are several differences between our model ships and the real ones that make this quite difficult, such as:

  1. The safety differences, limiting the gun placement, means that many ships are limited to bow and stern cannon firing, thus the classic naval maneuver of crossing you opponents' T now has exactly the opposite effect in our hobby versus real life.
  2. Targeting differences, with cannons being aimed by people not actually on the ship and sighting down the cannon barrel. This makes targeting enemy vessels much more difficult. The result is that we fight at ranges that are totally unrealistic in real life for anything other than a night battle (point blank). In 1/144th scale, the battlecruiser action at Jutland would have taken place with ships about 60 yards apart. We wouldn't hit a thing at that range with our model ships.
  3. Our ships aren't armored like the real ones, again for safety. Our ships must be easily penetrated. We compensate for this with pumps. Shells from a destroyer would bounce off a battlewagon in real life, not in our hobby.
  4. Our 'shells' are not explosive like in real life. Therefore magazine explosions and fires are rare events.
  5. One of our main objectives is to have fun while sinking model ships. Fun was the last thing on the mind of any man in the midst of a real naval battle. Real naval architects tried to design ships and systems that would withstand the worst an enemy could throw at them, and continue to function. Our people attempt to 'balance' systems to maintain a healthy level of sinks in combat versus total pulverization. In other words:
    If no one sinks: No fun, everybody packs up and goes home. If
    everyone sinks or suffers mega-damage: No fun, everybody packs up and goes home.
    Obviously we try to maintain the amount of damage dealt out to a 'reasonable' level. Down angled sidemounts, at the distances we fight at, are killers.
  6. Another of our objectives is to keep things simple and inexpensive. When people design fancy and expensive items that give them an advantage over people who don't have them, the items are usually outlawed. In our hobby, radar and radar-controlled cannons are totally outlawed. Why? Because we want everybody to have fun, not an arms race.
  7. The water is still at 1/1 scale. Trying to have scale speeds and scale maneuvering is very difficult. Thus we instead sail our model ships at speeds that are close to what is called "dynamic similarity", where both the ship and the model have equal Froude numbers. Doing this allows our models to behave hydrodynamically similar to the real ship. This is a difficult subject to explain without the benefit of a degree in fluid dynamics, and we get many comments from spectators because they think this speed is too high, but that's what we picked.

But in picking this 'speed limit', we still have other concerns that are different from the real vessels. The actual vessels try to squeeze as much speed as they can out of the ship without compromising too many other aspects of their design requirements. As such the designers are fighting physical limitations only. Our model ships can easily reach very high speeds, and most must be 'regulated' in some means to the speeds we have selected. Most real ships did not run speed tests before a battle to ensure that they did no more and no less than some table said they should. Our model ships do have to do this.

And as was mentioned before, this set of rules that we use evolved from the period of time when it was difficult to even hit another ship, let alone sink it. In that time we came to like the game and its differences because it was still fun. And the ships usually sink like the real ships, which is a real kick every time it happens, and usually results in cheers arising from the shoreline.

The rule set we use started at the time when it was difficult to even get the bb cannons to fire reliably. As technology advanced, the rules changed, but always with the intent of keeping the game fun for both rookies and veterans alike and playable at the same time. When systems get too good, and we begin seeing too many sinks, or conversely not enough, then usually we try to adjust the construction of the combat systems to bring the game back into balance.

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow fast do the ships go?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifEach type of ship is rated at different speeds. The speeds have nothing to do with how fast the real ship could go. Way back the real speed was scaled down. But since there are a lot of books that give speeds and a lot of speeds where done in optimal conditions or just lied about it was hard to know how fast a ship could really go. It was easier for the rules to be based on type of ship and length. This way the slower ships turn better then the longer, faster ships. It keeps things balanced. All ships are rated and tested on a 100’ course. The speed is how fast the ships can complete the course. Battleships and Battlecruisers are rated at 28, 26 & 24 seconds. Heavy & light cruisers are rated at 22 & 23 seconds. Destroyers and some small light cruisers are 21 seconds. Convoy ships are all 34 seconds.

 

B. Organization

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat is the MWC?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifModel Warship Combat, Inc. (MWC) is a non-profit corporation formed for the express purpose of building and fighting 1/144 semi-scale warships models from the World War I and World War II eras. The warships battle by firing bbs at each other. Safety, fun and good sportsmanship are the other high lofty goals to which we aspire.

 

C. History

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhich side has won the most Nats, what was the score and where was it held?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifSince the creation of the MWC:

  • 1999 - Axis (148,950 - 38,200 in Oklahoma City, OK)
  • 2000 - Axis (121,315 - 108,140 in Perry, GA)
  • 2001 - Allies (??? in ???, MO)
  • 2002 - Allies (153.535 - 138,875 in Houston, TX)
  • 2003 - Allies (185,035 - 138,470 in Perry, GA)
  • 2004 - Axis (196,990 - 158,250 in Rolla, MO)
  • 2005 - Allies (176,660 - 116,500 in Ionia, MI)
  • 2006 - Axis (115,595 - 114,065 in Coco Beach, FL)
  • 2007 - Allies (157,400 - 141,120 in Houston, TX)
  • 2008 - Axis (144,215 - 84,825 in Elk River, MN)
  • 2009 - Allies (141,735 - 121,355 in Denver, CO)
  • 2010 - Allies (196,610 - 143,690 in Houston, TX)
  • 2011 - Axis (131,130 - 125,370 in Elk River, MN)

 

D. Safety

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWith all those bbs flying around, is it safe?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifWell, having remote controlled bbs flying around seems to be asking for trouble, be we try our best to think of safety. As mentioned above, the bb cannons are relatively low-powered, firing the bbs hard enough to give a good sting but not hard enough in to break the skin. Thus our main concern is for eye-safety, and we have other safety rules in place to try and keep the bbs down below eye-level of most adults. For instance, the destroyers and cruisers tend to roll quite a bit when they turn, and so bb cannons are only allowed to fire directly off the bow and/or stern on these ships, to cut down on the shots going high. Even with all of our precautions, bbs will bounce, and as such, eye protection for all combatants and spectators is mandatory.

 

E. Construction

1. Hulls

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhere do I get kits or plans?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifBattlers Connection is a great place to buy. They have all the parts needed to build a ship. There are several other places that sell hulls and other parts.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's better, fiberglass or wood hulls?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe answer to that question depends on what you want. If you want a quick, relatively easy to build ship, then a fiberglass hull is the thing for you. Fiberglass hull last as long as wood hull but do need the outer layer of gel coat patched where bbs have chipped it away. Not every ship is made in a fiberglass hull so the selection is limited.

On the other hand, while a wooden hull is more difficult to build, and must be sealed carefully to prevent water damage, a well built wooden hull is more durable than a fiberglass hull. Another consideration for the veteran battlers (who are the ones who typically build wooden hulls) is that they don't have to deal with someone else's mistakes in research or execution, but can rather research the best plans they can find and build ships which are as much works of scale art as they are warships.

So, in the end, the answer to that question simply depends on what you want. If you want a quick fix, then fiberglass is the answer for you. If you want a little something more, then perhaps you should consider plywood.


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThere are pros and cons to both. Both types of hulls are widely used in the hobby. Ultimately it comes down to your personal choice, situation and capabilities.

Fiberglass Hulls
----------------
Pros: You don't have to build the hull (great for the novice.)
      Lighter than wooden hulls.
      Slightly more room inside for equipment than wooden hulls.
      You can get on the water faster.
      You don't have to spend money on accurate hull plans.
      Minimal ship-building skills required. 
 
Cons: Limited choice of hulls (choice widens every year though.)
      You cannot make changes to the hull design easily. 
      Difficult to fix mistakes (e.g. Oops! Didn't want to cut THAT out)
      Someone else made it.
      
 
Wood Hulls
----------
Pros: Wide choice of ships. 
      You have complete control over the design & building process.
      Extremely durable provided it is built right.
      You can make it as scale as you want.
      Easier to repair/fix mistakes.
      The wooden structure looks so cool.      
      Builds modeling skills.
      YOU built it! 
 
Cons: You need good plans ($$) to make a good hull.
      Takes more time and effort to get it battling on the water.
      Slightly heavier than fiberglass hulls.
      Slightly less space inside for equipment compared to fiberglass.       
      Needs advanced ship-building skills.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhere do I get fiberglass hulls?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifFiberglass hulls are available for sale by individuals and companies Battler's Connection, RC Artwerks & Dreadnought Hulls are a few of them.

Battler's Connection has the greatest selection of hulls, and complete warship kits and accessories. The owners of Battler's Connection, have been in the hobby for many years, and are very helpful to rookies building their first warship. The kits are very complete, including everything you need to construct a working model warship.

 

2. Cannons

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhere do I get BB cannons?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gif Battlers Connection is both good places to buy. Some veteran battlers will sell them to you or help you construct them.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifCan I make them myself?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifYes you can. But the first guns you make yourself never work quite as good as the ones you can buy. Once you become a “Veteran” battler you will want to try to build your own. Kind of like a Jedi and a light saber.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifAre poppet valves or solenoids better?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifDepending on the ship in question, one type of valve may be better than the other. A solenoid type valve has higher fire rates and give more power. However, the price is increased as is the weight. Solenoid valves are best used on large ships that have extra weight to use, and need multiple firing cannons. Such as most class 5 ships and larger. On more weight challenged ships, the weight saved from lighter valves can be used for more necessary things like batteries, and CO2 systems. Some smaller ships need to use poppets.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow do I mount the cannons to the ship?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThere are as many ways to mount cannons to the ship as there are captains. In general, if you are using a single cannon, it should be mounted so that it hits the water relative to the ship the same place every time. So the mount should be rigid and not allow the cannon to bounce around. Things that have been used for this sort of mount, that work fairly well are: zippy ties, wire ties, tabs soldered to cannon and screwed to decks, breach cradles, various clamps made from wood, plastic or metal. Multiple firing cannons (double, triple, quad) need to be fixed so that they hit near each other for best aim and effect. So some sort of clamp is needed to hold all the cannon in position. The idea is to make sure that they will not move relative to each other first, then with respect to the ship.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow do I do a double/tripe/quad stern gun setup?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifIt is necessary that each cannon have its own valve. For double cannons it is possible (but a nuisance) to use poppet valves. Otherwise each cannon will need a solenoid valve, that can be setup to test fire or tweaked separately. The solenoid valves should generally be mounted close to the cannon so that hose runs can be minimized. Also a volume tank should be used so that each cannon has enough gas to fire. The solenoid valves should be mounted low in the hull for best weight distribution, yet no so low that they are in the water.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's an accumulator tank?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifAn accumulator tank holds gas, under cannon firing pressure, next to the cannon valve. An accumulator tank improves cannon performance by providing larger gas flow to the cannon. Accumulator tanks are especially important when using multiple cannon setups. Accumulator tanks can weight a substantial amount when compared to the weight of the ship, and this should be taken into account. They are typically made from copper and/or brass tubing and sweat fitting that are sufficient to withstand the cannon pressure.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's better, a Geek, BC or Foster breech?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe Foster breech is the most popular and has several variations. The BC breeches use the same concept with an O-ring breech but it is compressed differently and is a different size. Both fire at the same rate and power. The Geek Guns (tube breech) do not hit as hard but do not need to be tweaked. Not many people use this style anymore.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some of the common cannon failures?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifFor manufactured cannons (BC type): Crud in cannon from sinking, bad bb in breach/magazine/barrel, broken barrel, corrosion in cannon from sinking and letting water sit. From home made cannons, all the above plus: bad solder joints that leak/have solder blocking/fall apart, flux inside, bad machining on brass parts, springs/pistons that jam (most common). Also for all types, bb dents in barrels, magazine, and lift tube. If you take care to protect your cannons from bb dings and make sure to keep them maintained they will last for a long time.

 

3. Batteries, Motors & Pumps

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's the best kind of battery to use?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifSLA (Sealed Lead Acid) for most ships. NIMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) for ships that need more power from the same battery weight. In general NIHM cost a lot more but give twice the amp hours for the same weight of an SLA

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow many Amp Hours (Ah) do I need?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe general rule of thumb is to use a battery that will supply all your electrical needs over an entire battle. Most ship types use (Assuming SLA Batteries):

Light Cruisers (under 10lbs) 5 amp hours

Heavy Cruisers (10-14lbs) 5-7 amp hours

Heavy Cruisers (Over 14lbs) 10 amp hours

Battle Cruisers & Battleships (under 20lbs) 14 amp hours

Battle Cruisers & Battleships (over 20lbs) 24-36 amp hours

Of course if you can spare the money NIMH batteries will get you twice the power. This is good in ships under 25lbs, but not really needed in the larger ships.

Your best bet is to find a couple people with the same ship you are building and see what kind of batteries they run.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's better, 6 or 12 volt systems?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gif6 volt, most motors are made for 6 volts. Everyone runs at 6 volts. If you go with another voltage you’ll have trouble finding parts and nobody will have a spare you can borrow at a battle.

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat is a MAG throttle & ESC and what should I use?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifA MAG throttle refers to they way people use a servo and two switches to change directions the drive motors are spinning. With two NO/NC (Normally open/Normally Closed) switches glued to the sides of a servo wired together you can reverse the polarity on the motors to get forward and reverse movement. This gives full power in both directions.

An ESC does this electronically and also allows you to ramp up and down the speed of the motors. They do this by turning some of the voltage into heat. They should be used for small adjustments in speed. Setting them to 50% forward power makes a lot of heat and can burn them out. If you use one make sure it is totally water proof and does not have a reverse break or delay. Also make sure the amperage it can handle is not too low for your drive system.

 

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some common motors in use today?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifSince speed is limited a standard surplus motor is good for the drive system. The best pump motors are “Stinger” motors from Traxxas. Or some other brand of high speed motor.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some common props in use today?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifDumas 3112 & 3113 a three blade 2” prop or the Dumas 4 blade 1˝”. These are better because they are cast and do not break very easy. You can also get soldered together props from B.C. They are cheaper but blades do break off when you hit something hard. The extra money spent here is worth it.

 

4. Radio

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's the best brand of radio?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifFutaba, Spectrum or Airtronics. Get a 6 channel, you’ll need it when you move up to a big Battleship (You will).

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow many channels will I need?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifSix

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifShould I run my receiver off my main battery?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThere are some advantages and disadvantages to running a radio receiver using a 6 volt ship battery. The primary advantages include no need to recharge a separate receiver battery, faster servo response, and saving the weight of the additional battery. The main disadvantages include the possibility of permanently damaging the receiver, interference, and losing control with weak batteries.

An important consideration using this technique is to install electrical plug connectors that will prevent the receiver from being damaged by incorrect connection to the battery. The receiver must not be incorrectly connected, or it will be permanently damaged. Simply adding a Diode inline with the power source will prevent reversing polarity and burning things up.

This technique is very helpful in small ships where weight savings is important, and is a useful option for those who like to simplify systems by eliminating the radio battery from the equation.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow do I protect my radio from water damage?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifIn a water tight radio box is the most common way. Some people cast the RX in epoxy and don’t use a water tight box.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's all this about Air versus Surface frequencies?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifWe have to use the ground channels and can not use air channels. Most people are on 75 mhz or 2.4ghz. Some captains also have 50mhz or HAM radios. Convoy ships run on 27mhz.

 

5. Superstructure

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow much do I need?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifNot much and it does not need to be pretty, according to the rules. Anything over 1” sq inch (144th scale) needs to be modeled. Lots of people do put a lot of work into the superstructure to make it look good and there is a best of scale award at NATS.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's the best way to do it so that it doesn't get shot up?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifABS plastic is bb proof and light weight. It is easy to cut and glue together. A good choice for any class of ship. Some of the heavier ships also use 1/16” or 1/8” 5 layer plywood. Some people also use 2 mil sheet styrene for the vertical surfaces. There are lots of things to build things out of.

 

6. Hull Sheeting

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's the best way to apply the silkspan and balsa to the hull?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifContact cement or CA glue. You need to start with good balsa wood. The good sheets can be rolled into a tub length wise. They should also feel soft. When hit by a bb the balsa should let it pass easily making a small hole. Balsa that is too hard will splinter making one bb hit into a hole 2-4 bbs in size. Most people put two layers of silkspan on the inside of the hull and one layer on the outside. The silk span is held to the balsa with contact cement or dope.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some common sheeting failures?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifNot enough glue to hold the sheet to the hull. Bad balsa that splinters when bbs hit it. Over time the sheet will peel away from the hull in places and need to be glued on again.

 

 

7. Internal Armor

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhy do I need it?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifInternal armor is that plastic stuff, just inside the hull of your ship, that prevents bb's from coming out the other side, and (hopefully) from damaging any sensitive components inside your hull, like cannon magazines, or electrical connections. You need it because our cannons fire powerfully enough that they will go through both sides of a hull, and exit holes are typically catastrophic. That, and if they should strike an unprotected cannon magazine, they can dent it can cause the cannon to stop firing, or can break electrical connections and cause a ship to go dead in the water, or any number of other, very bad things.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat's best to use?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifThe best, and most easily available armor material I've found is available at your local grocery store, in the form of 2-liter soda bottles. Buy several, enjoy the contents, and then cut the bottles into strips. Then, screw the strips onto your ribs, or some other kind of mount inside your hull. Make sure that there are no large open gaps, or cracks where bb's can get through, and that the armor extends from below the impenetrable area at the bottom, to high enough that a bb cannot pass through on the top, either. Likewise, at the bow and stern, there should be no room for bb's to pass through. At the same time, there needs to be open area beneath the armor at the bottom, so that it doesn't trap water and cause your ship to list and sink.

You can also use shower pan liner. Get it at Home Depot in the shower isle. It works just as well but is heavier then the pop bottles.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some common armor failures?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifCommon armor failures include:

  1. Inferior plastic mesh, plexiglass, or other armor cracking and breaking up into pieces after repeated impacts, allowing rounds to pass through the wreckage.
  2. Inadequately secured armor coming loose and flopping around inside the ship, allowing rounds to pass by it.
  3. Armor that's not adequately fastened at the bow or stern being blown out through the other side by triple stern gun fire.
  4. Large gaps in the armor, or between armor pieces allowing rounds through between them.
  5. Armor which is so rigid that it causes the bb's to bounce back out through the hull skin, leaving a nasty exit hole.

 

8. Electrical Wiring

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat gauge of wire is best to use?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gif12 or 14 or 16 for the main wires and the pump. 18 or 20 for the guns and lights. The bigger the ship the bigger the wire. Large battleships with high current motors need 12 or 14 gauge for the main wires to the batteries.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifShould I use fuses?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifNO, KISS principle. If you wire your ship correctly you should not have shorts or overloads in your wiring.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifHow should I prevent water damage to connections?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifSolder everything. Never use crimp on connections. Never use spade connectors meant for in commercial wiring. Use Dean’s Ultra connectors for large power draws and Dean 2, 3 or 4 pin micro plugs for smaller loads, like guns. Power Pole connectors also work well for the larger loads. Make sure and flush your wiring with fresh water after a day of battling. Some ponds have corrosive chemicals that will over time corrode the wires.

 

Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/q.gifWhat are some common wiring failures?


Description: http://www.mwci.org/images/a.gifBad soldering. Not covering connections with heat shrink. This leads to bbs causing shorts. Not keeping things neat and not being able to trouble shoot a problem.

Thanks goes out to many members for answers to these questions and a lot of the questions themselves. Larry Dahl, Brian Eliassen, Chris Au, Kevin Hovis, Steve Reichenbach, Chris Pears & others.

Aft

 

BB

BC

 

BC

Towards the rear of the ship. Used in the sense of direction such as, "I went aft on the ship."

 

Battleship

Battlecruiser

 

Short for Battler’s Connection

Battle Units

See units.

Bow

The front of the ship.

Bow Cannon

A cannon which fires into the 30o bow arc. Generally, these cannons appear only on class 3 and lower ships due to safety reasons. These cannons are good for distance sniping and shooting targets in campaign battle. Sometimes referred to as a "bow gun".

Bow Quadrant

The 30o area of the bow 15o to each side of the longitudinal centerline of the ship. This is the location where bow cannons are aimed.

Bow Side-Mount

A side-mounted cannon that is in the bow of a ship. Good cannon for pursuit to finish off a wounded enemy.

Breech

 

CA

CL

CV

CVL

The area of a cannon which restricts the movement of the BB until such time as enough pressure builds up behind it to fire.

 

Heavy Cruiser. A cruiser with 8” or larger guns. Has nothing to do with weight of the ship.

Light Cruiser. A cruiser with guns under 8”. Has nothing to do with weight of the ship.

Air Craft Carrier

Light Air Craft Carrier

Casemate

An armored area on the side of a ship which usually holds smaller guns. An area often ruled as impenetrable in our hobby.

Casement

A common mistake when trying to refer to casemate.

CO2 Bottle

The reservoir which hold the liquid CO2 within the ship.

Country Designations

DKM - Germany : Deutsch Kreigs Marine (e.g.; DKM Lutzow)
FNS - French : French Naval Ship (e.g.; FNS Richelieu)
HMAS - Australia : H(er/is) Majesty's Austalian Ship (e.g.; HMAS Australia)
HMCS - Canada : H(er/is) Majesty's Canadian Ship (e.g.; HMCS Halifax)
HMS - British : H(er/is) Majesty's Ship (e.g.; HMS Invincible)
IJN - Japanese : Imperial Japanese Navy (e.g.; IJN Nagato)
RMI - Italy : Regia Marina Italiana (e.g.; RMI Andrea Doria)
SMS - German : Sein Majistate Schiff (e.g.; SMS Moltke)
SNS - Spanish : Spanish Naval Ship (e.g.; SNS Espana)
USS - United States : United States Ship (e.g.; USS South Dakota)

DD

Deck

Destroyer

The surface that sits on top of the hull and supports turrets, superstructure and any detail a captain may wish to add. In the past, many navies used wooden teak decks due to its durability. In our hobby, the deck is often made from aircraft ply.

Dope

 

ESC

A paint used to attach silkspan to the balsa sheeting which renders it waterproof.

 

Electronic Speed Control. Provides forward & reverse movement in increments allowing for easier speed setting.

Geek Breech

A silicone tube design which restricts the BB's travel until enough pressure builds up to fire it. Virtually maintenance free. Also referred to as a "restrictor breech".

Gel Cell

Maintenance free battery which has the dielectric in a gel form. Larger and heavier than other battery types but they contain massive capacity which explains the popularity for this type of battery in the larger ships. Cannot be fast charged.

Fast Charge

 

 

Fast Pond

 

Fast Ships

The act of quickly bringing a battery to capacity with a specific charger. Normally reserved for NiCad batteries but some NiMH batteries can now be fast charged as well. Also referred to as "quick charge".

 

Refers to a large open pond, also a long pond where fast ships have an advantage over the slow ships. Has nothing to do with the water. See Slow Pond.

 

BBs & BCs  that are 24 second speed rated. Also CAs & CLs of 22 & 23 second speed. See Slow Ships.

Five Out of Control

You're almost guaranteed to hear this at least once during each sortie. When a captain has lost control of his ship, be it steering, propulsion or an accidental beaching...he's allowed to call "Five Out of Control" and to start his 5-minute timer. Unlike calling "On Five", the captain of a ship that's on "Five Out of Control" can still shoot his cannons if they still work. After his five minutes are up, he's allowed to remove his ship from the water. Captains on "Five Out of Control" are generally very popular with the enemy.

Focsle (foc-sil)

The phonetic spelling of forecastle.

Fore

Towards the front of the ship. Used in the sense of direction such as, "I went fore on the ship."

Forecastle

Area of the deck near the bow. Originally an actual castle structure built on warships. Also called focsle (foc-sil).

Freeboard

The amount of space from the waterline to the deck. Generally, the lower a ships freeboard, the harder it is to hit. But conversely, the lower a ships freeboard, the less reserve buoyancy available to survive a mishap.

Gunwale (gun-nil)

 

Haymaker

The point where the deck meets the hull.

 

A stern sidemount cannon. This is deadly cannon that can sink a ship if seconds if a captain can get it on target. Became known as a Haymaker at a battle where one captain was blowing holes into another to the cheers of one of his teammates “Make hay, Make hay!”

Hose Barb

Fitting to hold and retain small diameter hose which is used to plumb the pneumatic system within a ship.

Hull

The portion of the ship which displaces water so it will float. This is the basic item each ships starts out with be it a fiberglass hull from a commercial distributor or a wooden scratch built hull.

Internal Armor

Thin plastic sheeting placed at least 1/4" behind the balsa sheeting inside the ship. This prevents a BB from entering one side of the ship and exiting the other. Also provides protection for internal components.

Interrupter

An internal piston within a cannon which prevents more than one BB from firing at a time.

Keel

The longitudinal centerline of the ship. Generally the lowest portion of the hull under the water.

Man in the Water

Due to the MWC safety rules, whenever an individual enters the water, for any reason, "Man in the Water" is called. Everyone engaged in battle immediately ceases all firing and moving until the "Resume Battle" is declared by the Contest Director.

Mast

Structures to hold a platform high above the water in order to facilitate viewing of enemy ships on the horizon.

Motor

Device which converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. Commonly used for propulsion and in pumps.

NiCad

NiMH

Rechargeable battery based on Nickel and Cadmium. A high capacity to weight ratio which explains their popular use in small ships. Often capable of being "fast charged".

Rechargeable battery Nickel Metal Hydride. A high capacity to weight ratio which explains their popular use in small ships. Better then NiCad.

O-ring Breech

An o-ring is compressed to restrict the travel of a BB through it. Requires more maintenance as the cannons often need to be "tweaked" before battle but seems to provide a more powerful punch. The most common breech.

On Five

 

 

Pig Boat

Is called when a captain wishes to leave the water but before he can do so, his ship has to remain on the water for a period of five minutes. When his timer has expired, he can remove his ship from the water. During these five minutes, he is forbidden from firing his cannons. This makes people who call their five early in a battle a choice target.

 

A small class 4 or 5 ships that is slow and turns very well. Generally refers to German WW1 ships like Westfalen, VDT & Baden.

Poppet Valve

Pneumatic switch which allows the flow of CO2 to flow to a cannon when a mechanical manipulation of the valve occurs via servo.

Port

The left side of the ship while looking at the ship stern-on. Opposite of "starboard".

Port Quadrant

The 150o area to the port side of the ship centered perpendicular to the longitudinal centerline of the ship. This is the location where port side-mount cannons are aimed.

Pump

Device used to remove water from the inside of a ship.

Pump Outlet

An opening 1/8" wide which allows the water to exit the ship from the pump.

Quick Charge

The act of quickly bringing a battery to capacity with a specific charger. Normally reserved for NiCad batteries but some NiMH batteries can now be quick charged as well. Also referred to as "fast charge".

Radio

Electronic components which allow one to control the workings of a ship. Often contains a transmitter, receiver and servos.

Ram

Called whenever a captain believes he was damaged due to ship to ship contact. The ship is returned to shore and the captain is allowed to examine his ship for damage.

Ram Bow

A bow which was designed to cause below the waterline damage to another ship when it was rammed. These bows all have extended bows below the waterline. Good examples are the HMS Invincible and the SMS Nassau.

Regulator

Device which attaches to the CO2 bottle to bring the ambient pressure from 800 psi to a more reasonable and safe 150 psi.

Restrictor Breech

A silicone tube design which restricts the BB's travel until enough pressure builds up to fire it. Virtually maintenance free. Also referred to as a "geek breech".

Rudder

Vertical plane beneath the water to redirect the flow of water from the props which turns the ship.

Servo

Device which turns radio controlled electronic commands into mechanical movement. Used to control most aspects of a ship such as steering, throttles, cannon firing, etc.

Sheeting

The 1/32" balsa which covers the windows on the hull. This allows a fired BB to easily penetrate and cause a hole.

Side-Mount Cannon

A side-mount is a cannon which fires into the 150o degree starboard or port arc. These cannons are generally angled down to deliver below the waterline damage. Due to the MWC safety rules, side-mounts are only allowed on class 4 and higher ships.

Silkspan

Thin tissue like material used to coat the inside and outside of the balsa sheeting to improve its strength and waterproof capabilities. Often used with "dope" during the waterproofing phase of sheeting a ship. Grade 00 is widely accepted as the perfect choice for penetrability and durability.

Skeg

 

Slow Pond

 

Slow Ship

An area of the hull extending from a feature such as the keel towards either the props or rudder of a ship to provide hydrodynamic flaring and thus lowering drag.

 

A small pond or a pond with a narrow channel, bay(s) or other structures that give slow good turning ships an advantage. Does not refer to the water. See Fast Pond.

 

Ships rated at 26 or 28 second speed.

Starboard

The right side of the ship while looking at the ship stern-on. Opposite of "port".

Starboard Quadrant

The 150o area to the starboard side of the ship centered perpendicular to the longitudinal centerline of the ship. This is the location where starboard side-mount cannons are aimed.

Stern

The rear of the ship.

Stern Cannon

A cannon which fires into the 30o stern arc. Most ships arm at least one and they are very popular as they can generally be mounted lower then a bow cannon. Also, when you're shooting at an enemy with your "sterns", you present a very small target in return. Sometimes referred to as a "stern gun".

Stern Quadrant

The 30o area of the stern 15o to each side of the longitudinal centerline of the ship. This is the location where stern cannons are aimed.

Stern Side-Mount

A side-mounted cannon that is in the stern of a ship. The most dangerous cannon as, if used properly, it can sink an opponent very quickly. This cannon generally discourages captains from chasing a ship which mounts one. Know as a Haymaker.

Stringer

A narrow horizontal support between ribs on the hull to facilitate attachment of the sheeting. Usually based on hull shape such as bulges and armor belts.

30 Second Moss

While sailing along you accidently run over a patch of moss. As luck would have it, your props become fouled with the stuff and your movement rate drops dramatically. Basically, you're a dead duck. What do you do? Since the rules state that you can't touch your ship until a period of time as expired, the "30 Second Moss" rule can be used. After calling "30 Second Moss" and starting your timer, you have to wait 30 seconds before you can bring your ship in to clear your props or wade out to get your ship if it is stuck in the moss.

Triple Sterns

Let's face it...hearing these bad boys going off is impressive. Generally they do a LOT of damage above or on the waterline of a ship. They are very effective if the enemy starts taking on water as all the above the waterline damage will soon be below the waterline which all but guarantees a sink. Triple sterns generally appear on the larger ships within the hobby.

Tweaking Cannons

Just about every captain (with o-ring breach cannons) tweaks their cannons before each battle. This is to make sure the cannon is firing at its maximum strength without seizing up. Some captains are better at tweaking than others as it's more of an art form.

Units

A measure of how many cannons or pumps a ship can have. Based on a ships size and capability, the number of units ranges from 1/2" unit for the smaller ships to 8 units for the largest. A unit can either be a working cannon with a 50 round magazine or a pump with a 1/8" outlet.

Waterline

The line at which the water rest against the hull while a ship is at rest at a specific weight.

Waterproofing

The act of rendering something impervious to water damage. Often involves coating an object in a special plastic-rubber compound.