From the top left a Schrader valve (Ace Hardware one per gun) with the top cap off. Inside the cap is an o-ring. You can also use a flare end and cap if the cap has an o-ring in it. This goes at the end of the gun and is the magazine fill point. It gets a 3/32 tube at the nut part to pressurize the mag. Youll need about 6 of the 3/32 tub per gun.
Next is the nut that comes with all the Ό compression fittings. Below it is the plastic sleeve (Ace Hardware two per gun) that goes over the Ό tube to seal it when tightened against the T. Some people solder this point I like to be able to take it apart. Next at the top is the Ό compression elbow. This is the brand sold at Ace hardware. Home Depot sells another brand that looks more like the T. The Home Depot brand is not as good. The elbow gets a bypass tube soldered at the back and is cut out with a 5/16 end mill. This must be done with exact perfection for the gun to fire hard.
Next is the #36 o-ring (Ace Hardware 1 per gun). This goes in the elbow and is compressed to fire the bb.
Next is a brass barrel. (Hobby store 5 per gun) Rules say it can be 5 long. Longer is better. But dont have it hang too far off the side of you ship. Tubing is soldered on the end up to 5/16 (1/4 per size per gun) to make an end to compress the o-ring. This must be perfectly flat on both sides to fire the gun hard. The compression nut on the barred.
The Ό compression T (Ace Hardware one per gun) is below the elbow. It has two tubes soldered into it to feed the mag and the bypass on the elbow. It is also cut at the bottom with the 5/16 end mill so the screw insulator, spring and piston can all fit in it. It is connected by the upfeed tube, another section of Ό copper. I solder the upfeed to the elbow but not the T.
The white circle below the T is a screw installator (Small Parts one per gun). Sand this down to 5/16. It keeps the piston from crushing the spring.
The spring (Small parts 1/3 of a spring per gun) is below that. 3 Ό turns at the max. If the gun spurts when tweaked tight cut a Ό turn off the spring until it no longer spurts at high tweak. Some only use 2 ½ turns.
The piston is a #8 stainless steel wood screw (Ace Hardware). Cut down to fit the T so when the bottom cap is screwed on the piston is just below the incoming mag end.
Below that is a Ό compression end cap (Ace Hardware 1 per gun). This has a small piece of Ό tube in it to stop the piston from hitting the bottom of the T also a tube soldered into it to feed the gun from the solenoid or popit.
At the right of the T are Clipard parts. First a clamp (Clipard 6 per gun) that goes over the 1/8 hose to hold it on.
Next is a 1/16 barb fitting with a 10-32 thread that screws into the solenoid or popit and a rubber washer (1 per gun).
Then the male to male 10-32. Good for connecting solenoids to accumulation tanks.
Then a 1/8 hose barb for connecting large hose.
The clamp that goes over the large barb.
Last a check valve that stops air from getting into the wrong gun. Only needed on twin or trip guns.
Above are two types of accumulation tanks. These are needed to provide extra air volume to the guns when the fire quickly. Without them your guns may not hit as hard. These are not needed as much on single guns as twin and trip guns. At the left is one I will use in the NC for the bow sidemount. It is ½ copper plumbing pipe. With a T fitting and 3 end caps. Two of the end caps have the hose barbs installed. The other end cap is waiting for the solenoid. The top barb will be the feed from the regulator and the bottom will go to the stern. This set up is mirored for the other side. With two hoses feeding to the stern.
On the right is the trip sten gun system for the NC. The ½ pipe and two end caps at the botttom of the picture is the feed to the three tanks. Clipard elbows at the top hold the barbs. Each tank is Ύ pipe 6 long (This is over kill and will be cut down to make room in the stern) they should be 4 long. They are connected to the feed tank by the male to male fittings and check valves.